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  AMGA Single Pitch Instructor (SPI)
Courses and Assessments


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Overview of the AMGA SPI Program
AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course
AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Assessment
AMGA Facts and Stats
Rates


The following are printable documents:
SPI Course and Assessment Info PDF
SPI Equipment List PDF
SPI Exam Tips PDF
 

Jolliffication Climbing Instruction offers training and assessments for those interested in becoming certified Single Pitch Instructors (SPI) with the AMGA. 


The AMGA is the nationally and internationally recognized certification in the USA for Climbing Instructors and Rock, Alpine and Ski Mountaineering Guides.  As the sole representative in the US for the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA) and Climbing Instructor Certifications (endorsed by the UIAA), the AMGA is recognized worldwide as the highest American standard of training and certification for instructors and guides.  

Markus Jolliff has been mentoring and certifying aspiring guides through the AMGA for  years, and has taught climbing since 1988 in over 62 different climbing areas around the western US.
  He is also honored to be one of a handful of instructors nationwide who trains other SPI course providers.  He believes that the AMGA has effectively put together the key recipe on how to cook up a safe and fun day of climbing, while allowing space for everyone’s own unique “spice.”  Jolliff’s teaching focus is on each individual participant and paces each day to fit the needs of the group.  

For upcoming dates, check out the schedule.  


Important info for all classes and excursions

See information here about the following:





The AMGA SPI Program

 

The SPI Program is a three day (27 hour) training course and separate two day (16 hour) assessment. Certification lasts for three years as long as the candidate keeps current AMGA Membership and First Aid Certification. After three years current SPI’s can re-take the SPI Assessment to re-gain the SPI certification.

The AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Program is designed to enable climbing instructors to ‘proficiently facilitate and instruct the sport of rock climbing in a single pitch setting’. The program is for current, active rock climbers who have a real desire to teach rock climbing in a single pitch setting. Candidates should be passionate rock climbers that have their own equipment, regularly climb and have been rock climbing outdoors for at least 12 months. Candidates could be current university professors that teach climbing, climbing instructors, scout leaders, summer camp professionals or climbers who wish to achieve more credentials towards gaining employment in the Outdoor Industry. 

SPI Terrain Guidelines

The SPI will be able to proficiently facilitate and instruct the sport of rock climbing in a single pitch setting. Single Pitch Instructors supervise and teach climbing at any single pitch cliff, working at the base or from the top. They can work at sites where the anchors are accessed by non technical terrain and also by leading. For the purpose of the SPI Program a single pitch climb is one which: 

   Is climbed without intermediate belays

   Presents no difficulties on approach or retreat, such as route finding, scrambling or navigating 

 
The SPI Program does not cover multipitch guiding. These skills are taught in the AMGA Rock Instructor Course. SPI’s that guide clients in multipitch terrain would be guiding outside of their terrain guidelines.

 

AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course

 

This is an instructor training course for current, proficient and active rock climbers and for those who currently teach rock climbing and wish to gain SPI Certification. The course teaches many instructor specific topics such as professionalism, teaching techniques, risk management, group site organization, climbing site conservation/LNT and assistance/rescue skills.

You meet the pre-requisites for the SPI course if you: 

  • Have a genuine interest in rock climbing and instructing novices on single pitch crags.
  • Are at least 18 years old at the time of the course. Have at least 12 months prior climbing experience.
  • Are an active climber with traditional lead climbing experience (leader placing pro).
  • Have trad lead climbed a minimum of 15 graded rock climbing routes (any grade).
  • Are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on a top rope.

The above pre-requisites are absolute minimums and most candidates have way in excess of the above. Without having at least this amount of experience you are less likely to be able to make best use of the training. If you are unsure of your skill levels we suggest hiring an AMGA/IFMGA certified guide to evaluate and enhance your skills and experience prior to SPI Program enrollment.

All cours
e participants receive a written and oral evaluation at the end of the course and are granted a one-year associate membership in the AMGA.

SPI Course Overview
Number on course:      
Maximum of 6:1 client to instructor ratio


Course length:
               
Three days

Course dates:
                
Check Out Our Course Schedule Here

Cost:
                              
$495 which includes AMGA  membership for 1 year

Booking:                      
Contact Markus to book this course
Day 1
  • Session 1: SPI and AMGA Program Overview
  • Session 2: Professionalism
  • Session 3: Equipment
  • Session 4: Knots and Hitches
  • Session 5: Belaying
  • Session 6: Protection and Anchoring
  • Session 7: Teaching
End-of-Day Debriefs
Day 2
  • Session 8: The Climbing Site

  • Session 9: Site Organization and Group Management
  • Session 10: Base-Managed Sites
  • Session 11: Assistance Skills: Base-Managed Sites
  • Session 12: Programming and Risk Management
  • End-of-Day Debriefs

Day 3

  • Session 13: Instructor Demo Lead Climb
  • Session 14: Top-Managed Sites
  • Session 15: Lowering
  • Session 16: Assistance Skills: Top-Managed Sites
  • ession 17: Rappelling
  • Session 18: Climbing Movement
  • Session 19: Review Sessions

Final Individual and Group Debriefs

Check the calendar for upcoming classes

 

 

 

AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Assessment  

Two-Day Exam and SPI Assessment Candidate Prerequisites


The two day SPI Certification Exam can be taken directly following the SPI Course if the candidate successfully completes the course and meets the assessment pre-requisites. However, it is highly recommended that the SPI Course graduate takes time practicing and consolidating the skills learned on the course before assessment (6-12 months). 

You meet the SPI Assessment Pre-requisites if: 

  • You have successfully completed an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course, AMGA Top Rope Site Manager Course or AMGA Rock Instructor Course at anytime in the past.
  • You have trad lead climbed a minimum of 40 graded rock climbing routes. A large number of these should be at 5.6 grade and hopefully on a variety of rock types.
  • You are capable of comfortably lead climbing 5.6 traditional routes (leader placing protection). You will demonstrate your leading ability on a variety of routes on the assessment.
  • You are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on a top rope. 

 To gain SPI Certification candidates must:     

  • Successfully pass the SPI Assessment
  • Hold current AMGA Membership at Associate level or higher
  • Hold current First Aid Certification 
SPI Certification lasts for three years from the date of assessment. There are two options for renewal: 
  • AMGA Certified Single Pitch Instructors can take the two day SPI Assessment to renew their certification.
  • AMGA Certified Single Pitch Instructors who successfully complete any higher level AMGA Course are granted SPI certification for three years from the course end date. After completing an AMGA course please contact the AMGA so they can update your records.
  • To keep SPI Certification current SPI’s should seek out recertification before the expiration date of their certification. Candidates that let their certification lapse can take part in the SPI Assessment but they will not hold any certification between their SPI expiration date and successfully passing an SPI Assessment.


SPI Assessment Overview
Number on course:      
Maximum of 6:1 client to instructor ratio


Course length:
               
Two days

Course dates:
                
Check Out Our Course Schedule Here

Cost:
                              
$345

Booking:                      
Contact Markus to book this course
Day 1
  • Session 1: SPI Assessment Orientation
  • Session 2: Lead Climbing and Top Rope Session
  • Session 3: Technical Components
  • Session 4: Debriefs
Day 2
  • Session 1: Teaching Components

  • Session 2: Group Managment
  • Session 3: Debriefs
Check the calendar for upcoming classes

 
All exam participants receive a written and oral evaluation at the end of the assessment and are granted a one-year associate membership in the AMGA.  Students have the option of re-taking the exam if they do not pass.

 
AMGA Facts and Statistics

In 2009, the SPI Program earned the endorsement of the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) by meeting and exceeding UIAA standards for program quality and content. It is the only program in the USA that has achieved this. In 1997, the AMGA Guide Program was inducted into the International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations (IFMGA.) Again, this was the result of meeting and/or exceeding the standards established by this renowned, century old guides federation. The AMGA is the sole IFMGA representative in the USA.
  • The AMGA has been offering training and certifications for 30 years
  • The AMGA has trained over 5,000 guides and issued 2,568 certifications since its inception.
  • Over 300 AMGA programs are run each year in over 30 states and 3 countries.
  • There are AMGA members in 48 states in the US and in 13 countries in the world.
  • All SPI Program Providers have successfully passed an AMGA certification exam in one or more discipline in the AMGA Guide Program.
  • In 2010 the position of Climbing Instructor Program Director was created to better serve the SPI and CWI Programs and meet the growing needs of the industry.
  • The AMGA actively promotes certified guides by listing names and contact information on the AMGA website.
  • The AMGA shares a partnership, through donations of money and/or product, with 50 manufacturers of climbing related products, including the largest names in the outdoor industry. Twenty-nine (29) of these partners offer pro-purchase benefits to Certified SPI members.
  • The AMGA supports its members by annually awarding over $50,000 in scholarships and subsidies to qualified members.At the AMGA Annual Meeting, all AMGA members have free access to professional development clinics and workshops.

 

Rate Overview

per person
AMGA Single Pitch Instructor 3 Day Course $495 per person
AMGA Single Pitch Instructor 2 Day Assessment $345 per person

 




   

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Jolliffication Climbing Instruction & Guiding
Markus Jolliff
59940 Onaga Trail, Little House
Joshua Tree, California 92252
760-401-0643





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